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Rebuilding our 1973 Porsche 911T.

    For this gift giving season we hope you would consider some of the crafts we make. Being retired and on SS, it's the only way we keep our head above water and get parts for this project, go to band saw artist.

This is our latest toy. (We have had it over 10 years) It's a 1973 Porsche 911-T running gear with a Porsche 917 style body total weight under 2000 lbs. The body is number 007 first registered in 1973 in Arizona and it has been in storage for the last 20 years. Our plan is to mostly work on the interior and body this winter. Than hopefully do an engine rebuild next winter, I can do all the work myself except the valve grind.
I will post more pictures as the project goes along.
This is pretty much as found.

in the shop
Update, 8-28-14. We now have a new shop and I'm working on getting the body off.

UPDATE, 11-13-14. We have some work to do, the headlight sockets were cut out and now I will have to reform and fiberglass them as well as front end work. Looks like it may have hit something in the front at one time. Easier to work on once I get the body upside down.

We have a really nice piece of figured cherry I plan to remake the dash with.


The underside of the body is covered in fiberglass threads from the chopper gun when the body was still in the mold. Don't know why it was not cleaned up when it was made. So now I'm scraping and sanding and scraping and sanding. Than we will paint the whole underside white.

Spring 2016, got the body turned upside down. Sanded smooth the whole underside and painted with a really tough high gloss white. Something we learned while working on our boat it is a marine paint called EasyPoxy, you can put it on decks and walk on it and it still keeps a shine. Later I want to add blue LED lights under here for ground effects lighting.
It also made it much easier to do the fiberglass repairs to the front end and start the reform of the headlight pods.

Also started shaping on the new dash. 1 1/2 inch solid cherry should make for a good base.

Fall 2016, Thanks to a bunch of guys from the high school, the body is turned back over and start working on the top side.

Well it's now after the first of the year 2017.

Learning a lot about molding with fiberglass. Come to find out, where I used wax paper to cover my mold, resin doesn't stick to aluminum tape. So you can than push around the resin and fiberglass mating from the back side of the tape, including pushing it up hill and holding it there till it sets up, than peel off the tape. Boy, this opens up a whole new area.

Also starting on the wiring, come to find out the engine is a 1974, 911T. Yet the car was first registered in 1973.

Got the roll cage back in and the body bolted down.


OK, back to body work.
The front of the body is covered with a bazillion cracks. Like maybe someone bumped into something enough to flex the body but not brake it.
I have always heard cracks are really hard to repair with out coming back sometime after it's painted again. So I put the question out to some really smart guys that have been playing with fiberglass body's for a long time. From all of their responses, the most sure fire way is to sand off paint and as much layer underneath as you dare than anything left of the cracks, use a penetrating epoxy to seal the cracks, wait about a week to cure, than glass over the whole area. If you can add a layer of fiberglass it would be very strong, the strength is in the fibers of the glass, other wise the resin could crack again with out it.

   So to start out with, I've sanded off the paint and tried to get as much base as I could with out changing the shape, I'm not a body guy and I've noticed I have made a bunch of flat spots so far. I'm hoping hand sanding will give me the smooth lines back.   
Update 4-27-17

Using a board and tape as forms.

Getting the basic shape.  Sanding and more sanding...

   This is the plan for repairing the cracks. First a good coat of penetrating epoxy, it soaks into the cracks and stays flexible, next do the repairs and reshaping than another soak with the penetrating epoxy before a first coat of primer. So far it is all fiberglass and resin. The primer and top coat is a marine Easypoxy polyurethane paint that is super tough and stays flexible so hopefully the cracks will not reappear.

   Now concentrating on the interior, 1 1/4 inch memory foam glued to the engine wall and behind the dash, and working on the new dash...

Align steering column in dash.

Dry fit dash.

New clutch cylinders and line (check), Gas peddle and linkage (check),
All new brake cylinders, lines and hoses. (waiting for final parts for the rear cylinders).
Once that is done I can reinstall the front roll bar, dash, steering column and finish wiring.

Meanwhile we re-setup the corner of the shop,

And started the new seats in Navy Blue leather.

Not real happy with the headrest, think we will redesign them.

Got the mounts for the rear spoiler. Going with an inverted wing design connected to a lever in the cockpit to go from down-force to brake.  The wing is cherry of course...

  Got the brake and clutch done, moved on to putting in the dash, getting it prewired.

Dash mounted with navy blue leather dash cover. I dropped the gear shift 2 inches...

Built the overhead switch panel (cherry of course :-) ) Got it mounted and now finish wireing.
The headliner will be more of the navy blue leather.

One wire at a time. Dash, engine, gauges and ground effects working, wires all run for the lights and speakers just don't have them yet.
10 light blue LEDs for the ground effects lighting. Once it has the wheels back on and on the ground, I think it will be just about right.

   Cockpit now.

Figured it was time for an update on our progress. Got new tires for the rear in prep of getting it back down on the ground. But it seems like I just keep coming up with stuff to do first :-) The wing on the rear is dedicated to Phil Hill of Chaparral fame, He was the one that really got aerodynamics happening in race cars, the wing will be controlled by a lever to go from down force to full wind brake.

    8-1-18, Been bummed for almost the last year,,, The car has sat for so long that the clutch was stuck and would not release. I tried all kinds of things, with it on blocks and the wheels off the ground, I put a block on the clutch to hold it disengaged. Than every couple weeks I would start the engine with it in gear and try to shock the clutch free by hitting the brake, time after time, NO LUCK...
     So I finally decided to pull the engine in order to free the clutch, I moved the engine about 1/8 inch only to discover it has a pull type throw out bearing and you need to drop the transmission at the same time. So I tried wiggling the engine with the clutch in to brake it loose, bolted everything back up, and it worked !!!! The clutch is now working and I took the time to mount a new oil tank. A few more things to do while it is still on blocks before we take it for a test drive !!!

   11/10/18,   After getting it back together and having the clutch working again, I was soon to discover I no longer had reverse. Well after a lot of figuring it turns out that when I lowered the gear shift it changed the angle of the shift rod. I just loosened all of the connections and readjusted from scratch and now have all the forward gears and reverse....
    Now with winter setting in (it is snowing today) I think I will just keep it on blocks for the winter, it will be easier to finish the interior that way...

Feel free to: E-Mail: Chris, Donna Jensen
216 E. Ash St.
PO Box 3
Kensington, Kansas 66951
Cell, 785-476-8081

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